Cosmetic ingredients

Types of cosmetic ingredients

Cosmetics or cosmetic products are usually defined as chemicals or mixtures of chemicals intended to be used on the outside of the body to strengthen its fragrance, change the appearance, cleanse, or maintain the good condition of the body; they can also be used as perfume or for protection. However, it sometimes happens that medicinal products are also mistakenly considered to be cosmetic products, which may lead to their misuse. Therefore, users should always make sure that they know the intended purpose, properties and ingredients of the product. In contrast to cosmetics, medicinal products have therapeutic effects and they additionally contain certain active substances which are not authorised for use in cosmetics.

Basic ingredients that make up cosmetics

• active substances

Active substances or actives are important ingredients of cosmetic products that are used to eliminate specific problems, e.g., skin problems. In cosmetics, they usually respond to problems of dry skin, oily skin or skin prone to eczema, or they are expected to reduce the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles. A good list of cosmetic ingredients, even natural ones, should mention active substances, although their potency may vary depending on the type of product. Examples of active ingredients include antioxidants such as vitamin A, vitamin C and vitamin E. Probiotics, AHA, hyaluronic acid and coenzyme Q10 are also popular active ingredients in skin care products. When making a cosmetic product yourself, remember not to increase the permitted amount of active substances in the product. Excessive use of these substances may damage the skin, especially on the face, where it is more delicate. Using more of the active substance will not lead to greater benefits.

• base substances

As the name suggests, these substances constitute a base, i.e., an indispensable element without which a cosmetic cannot be produced. As cosmetic ingredients, base substances are responsible for giving the formulation a desired texture, e.g., of a gel or emulsion. They also make it easier for solvents to introduce active substances. The selected base substances directly determine the specific application properties. Base substances include alcohols, water, emulsifiers, surfactants, dyes or silicones. Base substances often perform several different functions in the product.

• solvents

Solvents are responsible for dissolving all ingredients in cosmetic products. The solute dissolves because its molecules interact with the molecules of the solvent. Solvents used in the cosmetics industry include water, vegetable or animal oils, silicones, alcohols, etc. The amount of the solvent depends, among other things, on the desired concentration of active ingredients. If the active substance is not soluble in water or oil, an alternative solvent should always be searched for as the skin will not be able to absorb the active substance in an undissolved form.

• water

In most cases, water is the most common ingredient included in cosmetic products. The list of ingredients of virtually every cosmetic product contains the term “aqua,” which indicates the presence of water. It is often used as the main solvent. The use of water as an ingredient in cosmetics is very important. It should be remembered that it is not the least expensive component, as some might think. It may seem otherwise, but water used for cosmetic formulations must meet a number of requirements, beginning with a very high level of purity.

• surfactants

Surfactants are one of the most important cosmetic ingredients. They have so many useful applications that the cosmetics industry would probably not exist without them. In cosmetics, surfactants are used for purifying, foaming, thickening, emulsifying or strengthening the solution; they promote penetration and possess antimicrobial and other functions. The most important property of surfactant molecules, which makes them valuable cosmetic ingredients, is their compatibility with both water and oil.

• preservatives

They protect the cosmetic against microorganisms that live on our skin or in the air. Preservatives are responsible for or maintaining what is referred to as the “microbiological purity” of the product, which may be impaired by its improper storage or use. The amount of preservatives used in cosmetic products is strictly defined by applicable regulations. A number of studies have also been carried out which confirm the antimicrobial activity demonstrated by certain compounds of natural origin. It turns out that such properties are characteristic of, for example, essential oils or plant extracts.

Apart from the ingredients listed above, cosmetic products may also contain: consistency agents, dyes, emollients, fragrances and hydrophilic moisturisers.

 

How do I read cosmetic ingredients?

In order to choose cosmetic products in an informed manner, we should learn a few basic principles that will help us read ingredients labels on cosmetics correctly. Checking the list of ingredients may seem difficult at first, but you should not be discouraged. You can also use apps that have been created for specifically this purpose.

Key principles

–the ingredient names use the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) nomenclature system. It is an international uniform system of labelling names for cosmetic ingredients. In this system, you can find English names that refer to chemical compounds and the Latin names of plants.

–the list of cosmetic ingredients follows a specific hierarchy of order: all ingredients that make up the cosmetic are listed in order from most to least abundant. If, for example, water is mentioned first in the list of ingredients, this means that it has the greatest mass share in the formulation. Substances that make up less than 1% of the product are not subject to this rule. They are always listed last, but in no particular order. Ingredients whose concentrations are identical are to be listed in alphabetical order.

– it is a good idea to search for the names of active ingredients that have a positive effect on the skin or hair and that may encourage us to buy a specific product. However, if while reading the chemical composition of a cosmetic product, we find one or more substances that are not good for us, such as high alcohol content (drying effect), then we should look for another product.

Natural cosmetics

Natural cosmetics are becoming more and more popular. The term “natural” means that the manufacturer has not used synthetic ingredients in their product. Natural cosmetics are based primarily on substances of vegetable and mineral origin. The composition of organic cosmetics is based on essential oils, herbal extracts or oils. Such formulations do not contain ingredients of animal origin and are not tested on animals (“cruelty-free”). It is commonly accepted that natural cosmetics should contain ingredients of at least 95% natural origin.

When you analyse the ingredients labels on natural cosmetics, you may find there:

Oils obtained from plants. Their name in the list of ingredients should include the word “Oil”, e.g., Argan Oil.

Essential oils give a pleasant smell to the product and they are also effective preservatives. They have different names in the list of ingredients, e.g., Rosmarinus Officinalis (essential oil obtained from rosemary).

Vegetable extracts in natural cosmetics come from herbs, flowers and fruits. They are referred to as an “Extract”, for example, Camellia Sinensis Leaf (Green Tea) Extract.

Butter is a vegetable oil which takes a solid form at room temperature. In the lists of ingredients, it is referred to as Butter. Shea butter – Butyrospermum Parkii Butter – is the most popular butter in cosmetics.

Proteins have moisturising and emollient effects. They are often obtained from Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein or Hydrolyzed Soy Protein.

Read more about raw materials for natural cosmetics.

Interesting facts found in the chemical composition of cosmetics

• Comedogenicity – comedogenic substances are those that cause blackheads. When found in skin care cosmetics, they block the openings of sebaceous glands, resulting in the formation of blackheads, inflammation and all types of imperfections.
• Parabens – derivatives of p-hydroxybenzoic acid. This group of cosmetic ingredients acts as a preservative. They prevent the growth of microorganisms in the product. They ensure long shelf life of the cosmetic product even at low concentrations.
• Coenzyme Q10, or ubiquinone. The chemical structure of this substance is similar to that of a vitamin. It plays a role in the production of ATP. It prevents the loss of hyaluronic acid and protects against collagen breakdown. It also delays the signs of skin ageing.
• s. quantum satis – the use of an ingredient at “quantum satis” level means that the substance is used at the lowest level necessary to achieve the intended effect.
• DMAE – dimethylaminoethanol. It is an analogue of choline (vitamin B4) and a precursor of acetylcholine, which is a neurotransmitter. It is used in cosmetics as an anti-ageing ingredient. Applied to the skin, it strengthens the activity of acetylcholine and stimulates muscles, causing a “lifting” effect.

Ingredients in cosmetics – legal requirements

Detailed legal requirements pertaining to cosmetic ingredients are set out in the Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009. The document also regulates all matters related to the requirements that cosmetic products must meet, testing of their effectiveness and safety of both raw materials and finished products. If the rules set out therein are complied with, consumer safety is guaranteed. The Regulation clearly identifies the ingredients that may not form a cosmetic formulation together and lists the substances which are only allowed under certain conditions and at a specific concentration.

In the European Union, cosmetic ingredients are assessed by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety at the European Commission. Finished products, in turn, are assessed by the “safety assessor”. Only after each of the supervisory authorities issues a positive opinion can the cosmetic be placed on the market. When assessing the cosmetic ingredients, you can also refer to the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) reports. It is an American organisation that was established in 1976 at the FDA. The CIR, with the help of the “Panel of Experts”, assesses chemical compounds that make up cosmetic products. The Panel consists of a dermatologist, toxicologist, scientist, representative of consumer organisations, as well as members of the CIR. After a very detailed analysis of a specific cosmetic ingredient, an assessment report is issued.

Cosmetic raw materials and finished products offered by the PCC Group

When on the lookout for high-quality cosmetic raw materials, it is a good idea to familiarise oneself with the offer of the PCC Group, which leads the world in the production of surfactants – a common ingredient in cosmetics. The product catalogue includes a number of synthetic raw materials, but also a whole range of raw materials of natural origin, certified by ECOCERT, ECOLABEL, RSPO MB and others. The PCC Group also offers ready-made products such as lines of shower gels, soaps and other hygiene products.

We encourage you to have a look at our offer available on the Product Portal and at the modern, multimedia cosmetic showroom where you will find selected suggestions of cosmetic formulations containing raw materials produced by the PCC Group.