Ceteareth-20 is the INCI name of a cosmetic ingredient, a non-ionic surfactant. Its chemical structure is derived from the family of ethoxylated fatty alcohols. Chemically, the substance is a mixture of cetyl and stearic alcohols ethoxylated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide. Stearic alcohol is most frequently obtained from vegetable sources and Ceteareth-20 is a fully vegan ingredient without any components of animal origin. As it complies with the quality requirements of the pharmacy code published in the European Pharmacopoeia, the product is classified in the Macrogol Cetostearyl Ether group. The CAS global identification number of Ceteareth-20 is 68439-49-6.
Under normal conditions of room temperature (approx. 25oC) and atmospheric pressure, Ceteareth-20 is a white solid whose consistency resembles wax. It has exceptionally good dispersing, solubilizing (i.e. enhancing solubility) and thickening properties. The substance exhibits high stability in the presence of electrolytes and hard water, but it is sensitive to specific changes of the environment it is in. If its solution is acidified, it undergoes hydrolysis and breaks up into smaller portions. The very high degree of ethoxylation of cetyl-stearyl alcohol shows strong hydrophilic properties of the substances. Thus Ceteareth-20 is an excellent stabilising agent and O/W (oil-in-water) emulsifier. This means it can combine two independent – water and oil – phases of a formulation and thus ensure the appropriate form of the final product. It is a foaming substance which stabilises and improves the quality of foam in compositions that use its combination with anionic surfactants, since mixed micelles are formed there. It can act as a solubilizer, i.e. an agent which can introduce hardly soluble substances (e.g. plant extracts and oils or olfactory compositions) into aqueous solutions. As regards the varied sensitivity of active substances to high temperatures, Ceteareth-20 can be used as an ingredient in the emulsification process already at room temperature due to its high emulsifying properties. In turn, with its high dispersing and stabilising properties, Ceteareth-20 enhances the production of formulations that are available as solids, e.g. in ointments. It can improve the consistency as it is a rheology modifier. It also ensures very good and even dispersing of the active substance in spray compositions. According to Global Organisations that conduct research of active substances, Ceteareth-20 is considered a safe agent with no restrictions applied to its use. It is non-allergenic and non-comedogenic so it is not excluded for people with acne or problematic skin. No negative environmental impacts of the ingredient have been recorded.
Ceteareth-20 is a valuable ingredient, a washing substance which removes impurities from both the hair and skin. It can remove any dirt and make-up thoroughly so it is used in the formulations of face washing products and make-up removers. Due to its softening and conditioning properties, Ceteareth-20 is used in body lotions, hand and foot creams and hair masks and conditioners. As it is an excellent dispersant for the active ingredients in spray formulations, we can find it in dressings of this type and in antiseptic compositions. Since it is based on the structure of polyethylene glycol, it enhances the permeability of active substances into the skin, by improving transepidermal permeability, and thus it is a valuable ingredient of face creams and oils.
