INCI system (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is a nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients existing in accordance with the law of the European Union. The system defines the order in which the names of the ingredients are listed, starting with the substance used in the highest amount, and ending with the substance of the lowest concentration. Oleamide DEA, Rapamide DEA is the name used in this system for oleic acid diethanolamide, a non-ionic surfactant.”DEA” in the name refers to the product of amide-diethanolamine conversion.
From the chemical perspective, amides are products of the transformation of carbonic acids (mainly fatty acids) or other acids with compounds containing nitrogen in their structure (e.g. alkyl amines, amino acids). Oleic acid diethanolamide is mainly a synthetic substance. From a chemical point of view, the compound is a product of a reaction between oleic acid (C18H34O2) with an excess of diethanolamine (NH(CH2CH2OH)2). The reaction product is an amber liquid at room temperature. This substance is moderately lipophilic and slightly soluble in water. It is very stable under normal conditions. The CAS number of the compound is 68603-38-3. It is an unambiguous numerical term assigned to a chemical substance by a US organization, the Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS). The substance is biodegradable.
In cosmetics, Oleamide DEA, Rapamide DEA has several functions. It is an excellent viscosity regulator, antistatic and foaming agent. The use of this alkanolamide in the composition of shampoos reduces the tendency of hair to pick up statics, because the substance easily binds to the negatively charged surface of the hair. The use of Oleamide DEA, Rapamide DEA in all kinds of soaps, liquids and gels improves the quality and stability of the resulting foam in contact with anionic substances. Commonly, this substance is considered a factor that perfectly nourishes and conditions the hair. Thus, the addition of this agent to shampoos facilitates combing and makes the hair shine. Due to its concentrating properties, the compound is also used in moisturising creams and colouring preparations.
Besides the use in cosmetics, Oleamide DEA Rapamide DEA also has technical applications. Its properties allow the compound to be used in metalworking products, textiles, detergents, processing fluids, degreasing preparations. It serves as an agent that improves washability and rinsing of water-free oils, which improves the effectiveness of products. It can also be used as a component of aqueous emulsions for non-corrosive working fluids. This compound is also used in the preparation of products acting as metalworking coolants and polishing agents. The antistatic, anticorrosive and emulsifying properties of the substance are used in the rubber industry and in emulsion polymerization. As a concentrating component, it is also used in paints.
Oleamide DEA, Rapamide DEA is an ingredient that is approved for use in cosmetics in limited concentrations. The chemical law stipulates that a compound is on the list of substances allowed for use in cosmetics only in a limited amount, scope and conditions of use. The safety of the substance was assessed by CIR experts. Alkanolamide itself does not irritate the eyes and may cause mild skin irritation, but does not cause severe allergic reactions. At the moment, there are no studies confirming the adverse environment impact. All the criteria and restrictions for the use of a given substance are contained in the relevant legal documents regarding the production of cosmetics.
